Framing gets the attention, but the electrical, plumbing and HVAC rough-in is what actually makes a garage conversion habitable — and it's the part of the project most likely to reveal a surprise once walls are opened up. We size and install these systems to code for full-time occupancy, coordinated with your permit's approved plans rather than worked out on the fly.
Most garages were built with a single 120-volt circuit for a door opener and maybe an outlet or two — nowhere near what a kitchen, bathroom and living space actually need. Whether your existing electrical panel has capacity for the added load, whether your home's sewer line has a viable path and slope to tie into, and whether a ducted HVAC extension is possible versus needing a standalone mini-split system are all questions specific to your garage and your home's existing systems — not something a generic estimate can answer without an actual site evaluation.
Assessment of your home's existing electrical service capacity, with a panel upgrade or dedicated sub-panel added where the conversion's load requires it.
Dedicated circuits for kitchen appliances, laundry if included, and general living space outlets sized to current code, not the single circuit a garage typically starts with.
New water supply lines and drain runs sized and sloped correctly to tie into your home's existing plumbing system or, for a detached unit, a new connection point.
A dedicated tankless or compact water heater sized for the unit, or a tie-in to your existing system where capacity and distance allow.
Heating and cooling sized for the converted space — a ductless mini-split system where extending existing ductwork isn't practical, or a ducted extension where it is.
Based in San Jose, working throughout Santa Clara, San Mateo and southern Alameda counties.
It depends on your panel's existing capacity and age. Many older homes have panels near their capacity limit even before adding a conversion's load, in which case an upgrade or a dedicated sub-panel becomes part of the scope. We check this during our initial evaluation.
Most conversions tie into the existing sewer line if the slope and distance allow a functional connection. For a detached garage further from the main line, this needs individual evaluation — we'll confirm what your specific layout supports.
A ductless mini-split is often the more practical choice for a garage conversion, especially a detached one, since it doesn't require extending ductwork across a distance that wasn't designed for it. We'll recommend whichever fits your specific layout and existing HVAC system.
For an attached garage tying into existing systems, there's typically some work inside the house to access panels or plumbing lines, but we scope this to minimize disruption and schedule it to keep the rest of your home functional throughout construction.
It's most cost-effective as part of a full conversion since the systems work is planned around the finished layout, but if you already have approved plans from elsewhere, we can scope the electrical, plumbing and HVAC rough-in as a standalone phase.
Tell us what you're converting it into — a JADU, an ADU, an office — and we'll get back to you with next steps, usually within one business day.
(408) 442-9136